How to Prepare for you Steelhead Trip Part Two "Rods, Lines, Heads and Tips"

There are lots of choices, but making the best choice for you doesn’t have to be that difficult

As my loosely promised deadline approaches (Yesterday or Today.) It put a small but welcome bit of pressure on these writings. Sunday, I started into a post about getting ready for a steelhead trip. I soon realized that I had a lot more to say than what I was willing to write in one sitting. Sunday's writing, I feel, was a good representation of what I find to be a lengthy subject. You got the best 75% of it anyway. I will try to do the same thing for today's version. I would also like to mention that if you ever have any questions about the topics here, please reach out. Whether I know you or not. If I know you, I'm happy to hear from you and If I don't, I'm happy to meet you. Depending on the subject and complexity and length of the answer, we may take it to a phone conversation. I can cover much more in a shorter amount of time. I am not the fastest typer and speech is my best way to articulate myself.

Here we go: Gear, Lines, heads and Tips.

I am making a big assumption that we are talking about two-handed rods since I would say 85%+ of steelhead fly anglers are likely using them now. All the big rod companies are making good rods. It can be a bit of a maze navigating what you need. When I conduct my Spey Camps, I always tell the guests not to buy any new “stuff” before taking the course. This allows them to get some rods in their hands and find out what they want and need before they dive into it. In many cases, they come out with different ideas from when they came in. I like to say that they can pay for their course a few times over by buying what they need the first time. The idea for the curriculum of the course was derived from seeing people show up for expensive trips underprepared, wrong gear, lines, flies, etc and in the end, they used up valuable time sorting out issues that were better dealt with and more easily dealt with prior to arrival. It’s almost like a trip prepper in itself.

Back to the Rods. Suppose you don't have the option of trying different rods, go to a reputable fly shop in your area with expertise in the field, take a guided trip and ask for some input, or look for Speyclaves or demo days in your area. That isn't always the golden answer though. Opinions, casting styles and whats someone digs on can differ from what you really need. In the end, if you are going with a guide or lodge bring what they tell you. They told you because that’s what they’re familiar with and there is likely a good reason for these choices.

Let me first start with my disclaimer. I do not proclaim to be an expert on the topic, and these are just some of my opinions for anglers fishing the waters where I guide most. I am fortunate as someone who likes to instruct, to be able to work with upward of 150 Two-hand casting guests a year. I've been able to identify through both successes and failures, consistencies within a group. These consistencies are what I am basing these opinions on.

This Rod says it’s an 8 but I prefer it as a 7wt. I use a 510 and it’s a perfect all-around steelie rod and one in my quiver I often reach for.

I like to see people arrive with rods Between 12.5ft and 14ft in 7-9 weight. This is my preference and I am attempting to speak to average Joe:

7wts (475 grains-525grains) are great for throwing drylines and light tips. They're a little lighter in hand depending on which reels you choose and are great for fighting small and average steelhead. Sometimes if you latch into a monstro it would be nice to have a little more meat. So if you are fishing rivers w decent numbers of big doggies in em. . . . read between the lines.

Rod Rack loaded up at Bow River Camp. Rods from 4wt trout spey to 11wt telephone pole.

8wts (525grains-575grains.) I believe, are the ideal. They throw your dryline great, light tips are a dream, but you also have more flexibility to push into the heavier tip world. When it comes to fish fighting, the discussion is over for steelhead, a true 8 is adequate for 90-100% of steelhead that swim and if you are lucky enough to tie into one of the top 10 percentiles, you'll be better prepared than you would be with the 7wt.

This short, fast 8wt is great in tight quarters and throws 15’ of T-14 quite well.

9wts (575grains-625grains) These "bigger" rods seem to have fallen out of favour somewhat. Each year I speak with guests who have them in their quiver but have allowed them to gather dust in closets. Some of them have resurrected these rods and got them back in the lineup throwing heavy tips. Let me make this as simple as possible without going into it too too much detail. If you are rolling around (quite often) fishing a heavy tip (T-14+) In tanks and deep buckets or, for whatever reason. You should consider a 9wt (if you can afford it.) If you are often fishing T17 or T20 for Chinooks, you should likely consider a 10WT or an 11WT rod (also if you can afford it). Yes, you may be able to throw T-20 on a 7wt, that doesn't make it the correct tool for the job. I can hammer a nail with a crescent wrench too. In the end, Mass carries Mass and to carry those heavy tips, the heavier heads make it easier.

“In the end, Mass carries Mass and to carry those heavy tips, the heavier heads make it easier. ”

If you are a trout guy who wants to dabble in Steel, maybe a 7wt set-up is best for you as you can multisport it a little. This is often my recommendation for a first spey rod for someone from trout country.

If you are a Steelheader and would like to try for Chinooks or Chum Salmon at some point, maybe a 9wt is the better choice for you for a first rod.

I fished Chinooks for several years with 8wts throwing 15 feet of T17-T20 simply because that’s what I had, couldn't afford another rod or didn't want to spend the money on a bigger one at the time. My shoulders still complain about these days as it was the wrong tool for the job. But yes, it can be done. Just remember the story of the “crescent wrench.”

Just speaking to length of rod for a moment before I wrap up. If you are fishing tight quarters, you may find a shorter on the spectrum rod to be more advantageous. If you are fishing a river with more backcast room and wading deep, you may find that a longer rod will suit you better. No backcast and throwing T-14-T-17 ? you may want a 11.5-12.5 9 wt. Fishing a larger river with light tips and wading shallow? maybe a 13-14ft 7-8 may be your preference. Hopefully, this all came across in a manageable bite-sized piece. Just remember that there are exceptions to most rules and nothing is definite. Listen, filter through for what works for you and come up with a system that you are happy with.

This writing only scratches the surface of this topic but hopefully, it aids in your selection of rods to take on your next trip. I hoped to write about rods, lines and sink tips in this post but I will surrender to it and give them their own day to shine. let’s hope for tomorrow or Thursday. stay tuned